Saturday, December 15, 2012

What A Week-- Negev Trip!!!


I brought my computer with me on our Negev trip partly so that I would be able to blog day by day, but unfortunately there has yet to be enough wifi for such a thing.  I have a lot to share, though, so this might be a rather large post.  But, we’ll find out.

I’m going to start by talking about last Shabbat.  On Friday, on the way to Yerushaliam, we stopped at a place called Neot Kedumim- a Biblical nature reserve. A Biblical nature reserve is a place where every tree was mentioned in the Torah.  It was established in the late 1960’s, and it’s truly a beautiful place.  To do the activities that were planned for us, we all split up into three groups.  My group started by walking up a path through various trees and shrubbery, and when we got to the top our tour guide man was standing there.  Looking out, we could see Modi’in, as well as stunning greenery.  He told us about how the famous battle of Chanukah between the Chashmonaem (Maccabees) and the Mityavnim (assimilated Jews) actually took place where we were standing. After his historical introduction we walked about ten feet to this big rock.  He told us to find strong rocks which we could hold in our hands, and he busted out some olives.  He put them on top of the big rock and showed us how to crush them with the smaller rocks.  Then, for the people who were interested in coloring their hands a shade of deep brown, he offered to teach us how to get the juice from the olives which could turn into oil after a process of distillation.  I didn’t participate in the juicing activity, because I instead picked olives with my friend Tal.  Afterwards, we all walked down a path so that we could watch a donkey pull a huge wheel which crushed olives.  This was to demonstrate the method of olive-pressing from back in the day, but also to show the amount of force which is needed to effectively press olives.  Then we walked further down the path and went inside of a tent.  We were each given clay, and most people molded it into a little jug/bowl for oil to sit in and burn.  When we all finished with that, we walked back to our bus which took us to the front part of Neot Kedumim and we went inside of a pen to heard sheep.  That’s right- shepherding!

After Neot Kedumim, we loaded the buses and made our way towards the Old City!  I was unfortunately super nauseated on the bus, so I tried my best to sleep.  We went a Shabbaton to the Sephardic Heritage Center in the Old City of Yerushalaim.  I had been there before on my 8th grade trip, but they actually made quite a few remodels since then.  Coincidentally, I actually slept in the room across from the room I slept in in 8th grade! It was such a great way to spend Shabbat.  Everyone spent the little time we had before Shabbat getting ready, and we had candle-lighting on the bottom floor.  After, we said Mincha together and had a wonderful welcome to Shabbat by the girls’ Av Bayit- Moshe Mernick.  Then, we all walked together to the Kotel.  All of the girls had a big Kabbalat Shabbat (prayer for Friday night) together, where we sang and danced all together.  It was a little cold, but we had a lot of fun together.  And, I saw Sarah Varon there on her way to dinner.  When we all finished praying we met up with the guys in the plaza, and walked together back to the Sephardic Center.  We had a really good dinner together, with, Thank G-d, lots of Sephardic foods.  The soup we had was nice and spicy, and one of our Rabbis was walking around saying that, “the true test of Sephardihood was within the soup.”  I loved it! I don’t always like spicy things necessarily, but there’s a certain type of heat that my mouth loves and that soup had it.  After dinner we had a shiur (class) from Rabbi Mottyberger of Aish Ha’Torah.  He’s apparently a super world-renowned, sought-after speaker, and we were lucky enough to hear him speak.  I appreciated what he had to say, so I stuck around to listen to other people’s questions afterwards.  Since I hung out there for a long time I missed our program’s Oneg, but it was totally fine because I enjoyed listening to him.  Afterwards, at (I think, but am really not sure) about 11:00, a bunch of people headed down to the Kotel.  Some people said tehillim, some people learned, some sang, and some prayed… It was cool to be there with such few people and total quiet.  It was really cold, and after sitting there for a while I had to get up and do some toe-raises to warm up.  We hung out there for a while, and when I got back I went to sleep.

I woke up on Shabbat morning and went to the Kotel for Shacharit and Musaf.  There I saw my friends Sydney and Jesse, which was super nice!  After tefilah, I headed back up the Sephardic Center and we had Kiddush.  Then we had a program with the prize of free Burgers Bar (a really good but relatively expensive restaurant chain here) for the winning team, and I am pleased to announce that my Ashrei team kicked butt and we will be eating Burgers Bar with Rabbi Bryks at some point! Then we had a really great lunch all together.  Afterwards I went to a class from one of my madrichot, and then spent the remainder of the afternoon, until Mincha, with Sarah Varon and Adina Polack.  Mincha, Seudah, and Arvit were all good, then we had havdalah together.  We had a lot of dancing and singing, which was fun, and then lit a menorah together and had more singing and dancing- this time more geared towards Chanukah.  We headed home, and I slept through the bus ride which was perfect, and when we got home we actually lit chanukiahs.  I got to sleep relatively early because I knew that we had an early day on Sunday. 



Sunday, we were up and out by 8:00!  Prepared for a hike, I geared up like a true Owen reppin’ REI hiking boots/socks, a backpack, and a lightweight jacket. 



We drove for a couple hours to a place called Ein Ovdat, and we did an easy, hour-long hike.  It was totally beautiful though, because we started in what seemed like total desert and continued into this canyon thing with a small stream in it.  We rounded a corner and the dry land turned into beautiful yellow-leaved trees with wet ground.  It was really interesting to see how it changed so quickly because of the higher concentration of water.






When everyone was done with the hike we loaded up our buses and rolled out towards the middle of nowhere.  Why would we want to drive towards the middle of nowhere?  Bedouin tents.  When we got there, we all rode camels.  It was definitely much different than the donkeys we rode in eighth grade, but it was undeniably uncomfortable so I didn’t love it.  Good times, though.  I was in the first group of camel-riders, so once we were done we went into the Bedouin tent complex and put our stuff down in the sleeping tents.  I decided to explore a little bit, and found the bathrooms and whatnot.  For any of you who have not been to a Bedouin tent, I’m going to try to explain what it’s like because it’s exactly the opposite- in a good way- of anything I ever imagined it to be.  Here’s the picture:

Imagine being in what seems like the very middle of the desert.  You look to your left, you see sand and mountains; you look to your right, you see sand and valleys; you turn around, you see sand and rolling mountains; and when you look straight ahead, you see basically a brown, tall, modified tent-city with a fifteen-foot opening to the compound in front of you.  You walk towards and through the opening, and you see a big open space in a sort-of circle with many tent openings around it.  (By tent I don’t mean the kind of tent that is pitched at a campground, but rather the kind of tent that has one full side of burlap’ish material which folds up.)   You walk straight through the open circle area, and directly ahead there is a wall with a fire pit area about ten feet in front of it.  As you get closer, you realize that on the other side of the wall there were many camels and other animals.  Your directions were to turn right at the fire pit, so you do, and there you see a super long and deep, and about ten-foot tall, tent with tens of mattresses on the floor.  It is surprisingly nice. You decide that after you put your stuff down on a mattress you want to go explore a little bit.  Next to the big circle area, on your left after walking out of the tent, there is a huge teepee, with a fire about five feet into it, and a couple of Bedouins hanging out inside.  After the teepee there is a building with bathrooms, and when you turn left from that building you again see the big open circle space.  But, before it, you see a lovely shack with two boiling urns and a variety of fruit next to it.

That’s my attempt at giving an understanding for the Bedouin tent area.  When I saw the shack with hot drinks and fruit, I went over immediately to see if there was tea- because Bedouin tea is quite talked about, and, being a new tea-drinker, I wanted to try it.  As I walked over there, I saw my friend Jason, who helped me get into tea, standing next to the urns.  He said that one was coffee and one was tea, so we both took a cup of steaming hot tea and enjoyed it.  Then, everyone was told to go to the teepee for a welcome to the Bedouin tents.  A sweet-looking Bedouin man brought us in, and we all sat on the floor in a semi-circle around the fire.  One of my friends, Dorin, translated for him as he spoke to us about information on and the history of Bedouins.  He told us that if a Bedouin comes to your tent, and you don’t want him there, you should fill up his cup of coffee to the top- as opposed to about 80% full.  That made me wish that we could implement that into American society.  Can you imagine if every time you didn’t like or want to talk to someone you could fill up his or her coffee cup to the top and the person would just get up and leave?
We had a nice introduction, some free time, then met together outside the eating tent to say Arvit.  Afterwards we lit Chanukah candles then ate dinner.  Dinner was awesome!  I sat with a beautiful group of fellow Sephardim, for the most part, and we enjoyed the incredible spread together.  We started with random salatim and pitas, and were quickly brought a humungous lafa platter with mountains of rice, lentils, corn, stuffed peppers, and more on top of it.  Rabbi Menaged, our resident Sephardic Rabbi, made it quite clear that the only proper way to eat from it was to rip the lafa then scoop up food inside of it.  I must say that every part of the lafa platter was absolutely delicious, but I most enjoyed the stuffed peppers.  The next course was chicken on skewers and- wait for it- cinnamon stick kabobs.  Let me explain what that means. . . Take a cinnamon stick, clump ground beef around it, spice it, and cook it.  I think it was one of the most innovative methods of flavor-infusing that I have ever seen, and boy-oh-boy was it delicioso! I highly recommend it to anyone who is looking for a fun and unique new recipe, because it both looks good and tastes good.  Dessert was a plate of various baklava, cups of jello, and little satsumas.  After dinner we had free time for a while, then a fire pit.  We had marshmallows to roast, and skewers to do so with, and Rav Ari busted his guitar out.  We all ended up standing around the fire pit in circles and singing and dancing around, and we had such a fun time doing it.  It was really incredible to look up and see the vast sky perched above us.  After the fire pit, I went on a star-gazing adventure with the coolest woman ever named Mrs. Seigal and a bunch of my other friends.  We exited the Bedouin compound from the opposite side that we came in on, and decided to just walk until the light was no longer clouding our vision of the sky.  For the record, I was wearing flip flops because I only had those or hiking boots and didn’t feel like lacing up the boots.  It turned out to be a mistake, because I got a huge cut underneath one of my toenails which bled a lot and caused me far too much pain during the hikes thereafter.  Anyways, though, I so beyond enjoyed the star-gazing, because although we have some serious star action in and around Seattle it is far less amazing than the desert starry night.  We found a random spot, and most of us laid down on the ground to enjoy.  Seeing such a completely full sky of stars makes it really easy to get “lost” in the sky.  I saw a shooting star, which was great.  We spent a solid thirty or forty minutes out there, and when we came back I tended to my wounded toe. 

When I had finally cleaned it up, with help from one of my madrichim Samuel of Australia, I sat at the camp fire to listen to the end of a shiur that Rav Ari was giving.  When he finished I decided to eradicate the very strong smoke smell from my hair and body, and took a shower.  Thank G-d for the Bedouins and their hottest shower water I’ve experienced in forever!  What a great feeling cleanliness is.  I went to bed pretty soon after my shower, because wake-up was 4:20 A.M. for a sunrise hike up Masada.  When I got into our tent it was steaming hot, and I really didn’t need anything other than pajamas to sleep with.  However, not to my prior knowledge, the plan was to turn the heat off in the middle of the night.  Why? No one knows.  So, when I woke up about an hour and a half later shivering violently I was, to say the least, surprised.  I did my best to warm up by scrunching up into a ball, but it didn’t really work so well and I woke up again about twenty minutes later.  I put on a jacket and went back to sleep, but of course woke up again.  Then I decided to get into the sleeping bag that the Bedouins provided me with, which could be considered yucky but is also considered warm.  And since I was experiencing the coldest body temperature of my entire life, it was worth it to me to put the yuckyness on hold.  I still woke up again, but this time at 3:01 A.M, and when I saw that I got legitimately angry at the fact that the alarm wouldn’t go off for another hour and twenty minutes.  I was so cold that I tried to do jumping jacks inside of my sleeping bag, but it didn’t really work.  Somehow I managed to close my eyes and survive the duration of the allotted sleeping time, and when I heard the alarm go off I was the most excited I’ve ever been to wake up.  Just saying, my modeh ani was ridiculously energetic for a prayer that occurs upon getting up in the morning. 

I want to pause and throw out a shout-out to my first cousin Aiden Gindin, whose Bar Mitzvah it was this past weekend! I wanted and tried to Skype in to the party, but the Bedouins don’t exactly have such an appreciation for wifi or cell phone service.  It was super lame that I had to miss out on that opportunity, but I heard that he read Torah and spoke amazingly and that the party was awesome! So, although I am really sad that I missed out- both physically and technologically- I am really happy that all went well, and SO proud of him!

And here we have the second day of our Negev trip.  When I stood up to go brush my teeth and whatnot in the bathroom, I did about twenty jumping jacks which didn’t even warm me up.  Walking to a bathroom in complete darkness, if I may say so myself, makes a person feel like it is night time even if it isn’t because it’s only a little bit past 4:00 A.M.  Just a thought.  After I got dressed, continued to feel like a popsicle, and grabbed my stuff, I headed out of our tent with my stuff and was treated to a wonderfully hot cup of tea as well as a couple of crackers for the road.  I loaded my stuff on the bus, took a seat, and tried my best to mentally heat my body up.  It was weirdly successful, and by the time we got to Masada I was semi-content.  Despite it being a little bit after 5:30, and still freezing cold, I rolled out for the hike with shorts and a light jacket.  We went up the Roman path, which is basically a walk in the park, and I made it to the top with maybe a drop of sweat on my forehead, and in what felt like fifteen minutes.  The sun was nowhere near rising, and we all headed to the southwest side of Masada to a little deck area where we would be saying Shacharit. 

We spent a couple of minutes marveling at the view and getting ready for Shacharit, and then we started.  It was a truly incredible experience to pray Shacharit at the top of Masada, looking over the Dead Sea, as the sun gradually appeared on the horizon.  It was timed precisely so that the sun rose during the Amidah, which could not have been cooler. 



After Shacharit, we split up into two groups and got little tours of Masada.  It was truly lame that we couldn’t have spent more time up there, because it has an awesome history and we were already there.  We saw the synagogue, which was cool, as well as another room and some awesome views.  I hiked down the snake path with two of my friends, Noam and Jason, and when we all got down we ate breakfast at this place at the bottom of the mountain.  Most of it looked like really good food, but I could barely eat because of my non-dairy diet.  It was a nice breakfast, though.  On the way out, we grabbed pre-made schnitzel (yay, meat!!!) sandwiches for lunch for the day.  From there, we split up into two groups.  One would have an afternoon centered around the Dead Sea, and the second (better) group would go on an awesome, three-hour hike above the Ein Gedi springs.  Obviously I, and every other cool person on the program, picked the hike, because who wouldn’t! Just kidding, there were plenty of people who picked more time at the Dead Sea. 

When we got to the starting point for the hike, we were at a beautiful lookout point over the Dead Sea.  Little did we know that the view would only get bigger and better, because we were going to climb upwards.  The first thirty’ish minutes of the hike was all total up, and it was awesome.  I loved feeling like we were literally climbing a mountain-side, because we were, and being able to notice the progress by the quality of the view.  At what we thought was the highest point of the hike, we had to climb up about ten feet of rock to really get to the highest point.  It was a scary kind of awesome to know that with one wrong step I would be falling off of the mountain.  Thank G-d, no such wrong step was made and all went according to plan.  At the front of our group of hikers, we had about five people consistently—The Wolf Pack. 




We hiked up, down, and around for about three hours until we got to the Ein Gedi springs.  What a perfect feeling it was to cool down by sticking my head and body underneath a waterfall. .. Just saying, it was awesome. 

When everyone finished the hike, we loaded our bus and drove for about half an hour to the Dead Sea.  We spent about forty minutes there, but since I was freezing cold from going in the waterfall I didn’t go in the Dead Sea.  In addition to my low body temperature, because of the cut on my toe from the night before I was quite fearful of the screaming pain I would have been in if I went into the very salty water that is the Dead Sea.  So, instead, I watched some of my friends go in, and hung out with the other cold/cut up girls.  Afterwards we met the other bus at this pier place, said Mincha, and we were on our marry way to our destination for the night.

We got to the place we were staying at in Yerucham (a.k.a. the actual middle of nowhere) and jumped on the shower opportunities that were awaiting us.  Great feeling to be clean after that day.  We all lit Chanukah candles together in the lobby, and had dinner afterwards.  Because of the super busy day of hiking that about half of us did, we consumed a lot of food.  For real though, I kept comments from people at my table about how they could eat all night long.  I love when I feel like the eating I’m doing is completely to fuel my body from the energy that I expended… Definitely had that.  At 9:00 we had a Texas Hold ‘em poker tournament, which I for some reason decided to take part in, and we had a really good time.  There were about five or six tables, of seven players, and the top two from each table would go to the Final Table.  A friend of mine, Maya, and I somehow both won our table (whattup!), but we also both decided that bed was much more important than the Final Table.  Hahaha.  So, no one from our table went to the Final Table, which obviously made it much easier for my friend Jason to end up winning the whole thing—including a free steak dinner. 
The next day we planned to leave at 7:30ish, so we had an okay breakfast at 7.  We loaded up the buses, drove for less than half an hour through desert, desert, and more desert, and stopped in what seemed like a different middle of the desert than the Bedouin tents.  After about a minute of exploration when we got off the bus, I realized that there was in fact a trail-head. 



I’ve never done a hike that was anything similar to this one.  It really felt like we were just wandering through the desert.  In fact, if we didn’t have two tour guides and trail-markers, I would call what we were doing wandering.  It was so cool, though, to look around, in each direction, and see nothing but dirt mountains and valleys.  One of the tour guides, Yossi, showed us this awesome plant!  If you take a branch or two, hold it, and rub it between your hands until it cracks open, it completely purifies your hands! It’s like nature’s Purell.



And, he said, when combined with a different plant, which we did not come across, it turns into Shampoo!
About half way into the hike we went through a waterless river-bed, and we were going further and further down.  Obviously this meant that we would eventually have to climb way, way up, but we didn’t really know when or how.  All of the sudden, the trail-marker pointed 90 degrees upwards.  You’d think the rock with the trail-marker had just been knocked over, or something, but really that is exactly what it was supposed to look like!  We climbed up the side of a mountain, literally, for five to ten minutes.  Since I was basically in the front of the group, I got such a cool picture of everyone else hiking up the mountain way below us:



We hung out at the top for a couple of minutes to take a break, then began our decent.  It took about fifteen minutes for us to get down, and the first bus-full of people to finish loaded up and headed over to gas station that was not even 1/4th of a mile away from the trail-end.  After we had all been there and had a sufficient amount of time to go to the bathroom or buy snacks, we got back on the bus and drove for about thirty seconds.  There, we split into two groups.  One to go Jeeping first, the second to go repelling first.  My group went repelling first



It was fun, in principle, but since we were all exhausted from the hike and it wasn’t the most exciting repelling wall, there wasn’t so much energy going on.  It was a good experience, and I’m glad I went.  Then we switched and went jeeping… Not sure I feel the same way about jeeping.  When we went with the Early Start group it was an awesome experience, but this time it was like a drive with some bumps sometimes.  Honestly, I slept for the entire first half of the ride.  I felt badly because the driver asked what was wrong with me—I think I offended him and his lack of jeep-driving skills.  It was a nice and necessary nap nonetheless. 

When we all finished both activities, we got on the buses and headed back to Yerucham.  I thought I appreciated the shower the night before, but I loved it so much more after the hike that was actually through the dirt of the desert.  I guess I could just be thankful for all of my showers all the time, but whatever.  We had a charity auction for the night program, which was surprisingly awesome and successful.  People auctioned off different talents or classes or services, and people in the crowd bid on them.  Originally, I thought that the bidding would go up to maybe twenty shekel a piece.  People ended up bidding hundreds of shekel for most of the items, which was really cool.  We raised a lot of money, had a great time, and people got some good stuff out of it.  Great program! I hung out with Noam and Jason for a while after and had some tea, then it was bed time. 

In the morning, we loaded up the buses after breakfast, and most people went right to sleep.  The destination for the day was Eilat, which was a couple hour drive away from Yerucham.  Instead of sleeping, I talked on the phone for a while then talked with people around me.  I think I fell asleep for about twenty minutes.  When we got to the most beautiful city of Eilat, we had about two hours of free time on the Boardwalk.  I spent it with Adina (Polack).  First, we walked around for a little bit, then parked it on some rocks on the beach and just soaked up the sun as we talked.  Good stuff, if I may say so myself. 



We all met up a little before 1:00 to go on a glass-bottom cruise.  Obviously that sounds cool, but you don’t understand how cool until you’ve been on it.  First of all, the lunch they served us was delicious.  Secondly, the view was stunning because the water is so clear and blue from the top of the boat—yum.  Thirdly, when we got to the mid-way point in the boat ride and we slowed down and were welcomed to the bottom of the boat, the glass-bottom view was unreal!  It’s crazy how crystal clear the water is.  I really felt like I was swimming with the beautiful fishies that were around us.  The expansiveness and depth to the ocean made me want to go snorkeling or scuba diving so badly! We saw all different sizes of fish, eels, the reefs, and much more.  I totally loved it.



After the glass-bottom boat ride, the bus headed back home.  After four or five hours we made it back, and I hung out for a little bit and lit candles before going to bed.  I rested, did laundry, and did some work on Thursday then hung out with Ilana Greenberg and Sarah Varon for the night. 

The three of us went to a beautiful Yishuv (specific kind of community) called Kochav Ha’shachar for Shabbat.  How did we get there?  Ilana and Sarah met this really nice family in a schwarma restaurant a couple weeks ago, and after talking for a while the family invited them for a Shabbat.  Obviously they took them up on their offer, and I tagged along.  What a beautiful place to live.  Overlooking Jordan and the Jordan valley, they have about 350 families who live together on this hilltop.  The scenery is obviously stunning, and the whole community was soooo nice and peaceful.  What a great way to spend Shabbat!

Tomorrow I have Ulpan and Magen David Adom on the schedule… I’m going to find out how I did on my test- crazy!

Shavua Tov to all!

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